Artificial grass installation begins beneath the surface. The infill that sits between the fibres, the base rock that anchors the turf, the drainage path that carries water away, and the seams that hold the edges together all determine whether your lawn will feel right underfoot, drain properly, and stay in place through Lubbock's wind, heat and occasional heavy rain. This guide walks you through each layer and each decision so that you understand what goes into a turf installation that works, and what questions to ask any installer, including us.
Whether you are converting a Bermuda lawn that has thinned to dust, installing turf in a dog run or pet area, building a putting green, or preparing a yard for sale or a move-in, the foundation matters as much as the turf itself. Read on to learn what infill is, how much you need, what base preparation looks like on Lubbock's clay and caliche soils, and how to verify that the work is done right.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material that sits on top of the turf backing, between and supporting the synthetic fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it props the fibres upright so they feel natural underfoot, protects the backing from ultraviolet light, adds weight so wind does not lift the turf, and helps water drain through the system. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast material that is affordable and widely available. Silica sand is angular and dense, which makes it effective at holding the turf in place, though some homeowners prefer a softer feel.
Coated sand is silica sand that has been treated with a polymer or mineral coating, making the grains smoother and rounder. Coated sand is gentler on bare feet and pets, and it is often coloured to complement the turf fibre. Zeolite is a microporous mineral that is added to infill blends, particularly in pet areas, because it has a natural affinity for odour molecules and helps reduce smell from urine. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under names such as Envirofill, are engineered to inhibit bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in hot climates. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tyres, is a sports-field infill used in high-impact applications like playgrounds and athletic courts, but it is not typical for residential yards. The choice of infill depends on the application, the turf product, and your priorities for comfort, drainage, odour control and heat management.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified by weight in pounds per square foot (psf). The amount you need depends on the turf product, the pile height, and the intended use. A typical residential turf might call for 2 to 4 pounds per square foot, while a pet area or play surface may require more for durability and cushioning. The infill props the synthetic fibres upright, protects the backing from sun damage, adds ballast to resist wind and movement, and supports drainage by creating pathways for water to flow through. Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by installers cutting costs: the turf will look thin, fibres will mat down, the backing will degrade faster, and drainage will suffer.
When you receive a quote or proposal, ask for the infill amount in writing, specified in pounds per square foot. This figure should be part of your written turf specification, along with the infill type. Do not accept a vague promise that the turf will be "properly filled" or "industry standard." Different products and different uses require different amounts, and a professional installer will know the requirement for your specific turf and will commit to it in writing. If you are unsure whether the figure is appropriate, ask during your free estimate.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path to good drainage begins with what sits underneath the turf. The first step is to remove the existing lawn, any old turf, and the root layer. Once the old growth is cleared, the ground is excavated to the depth needed for the base material (typically three to four inches on Lubbock soil). At this point, a weed barrier fabric may be laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf, though placement depends on the site conditions and whether the base material itself will suppress growth. The weed barrier is permeable so it does not trap water.
Next comes the free-draining base layer, usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock, which is spread and compacted firmly in lifts (typically two-inch passes) using a plate compactor. This base must slope gently away from the house, pool or any structure so water does not collect. On top of the compacted base, an optional draining underlay or pad may be installed, particularly in pet areas, beneath play surfaces, or on hard surfaces like patios and balconies where extra cushioning or drainage is desired. Finally, the turf is laid over the prepared foundation. On concrete, a balcony, or any hard surface where water pools, the turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, a draining underlay is used and edge drainage is provided so water can escape. This layered approach ensures water moves through the system rather than sitting underneath.
Base Prep on Lubbock Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Lubbock sits on the Llano Estacado with sandy and clay loam soils over a hard caliche layer. This geology matters for base preparation because caliche and clay do not drain freely. If your yard has poor drainage or tends to hold water after rain, the base preparation must account for this from the start. Excavation typically goes three to four inches deep, depending on the existing grade and the need to slope water away. The excavated area is graded with a gentle fall away from the house, the pool deck or any structure so that water runs off rather than pools. This slope does not have to be steep; a fall of one-quarter inch per foot is sufficient.
The base material (decomposed granite or crushed limestone base rock) is then spread and compacted in lifts using a plate compactor. Each lift is typically two inches, and the material is compacted firmly before the next lift is added. Proper compaction is essential because an uncompacted base will settle unevenly, creating dips and soft spots in the turf where water collects and odour can develop. A plate compactor leaves the base firm and stable. On sites with serious drainage problems (standing water, poor slope, high water table), the decision to proceed depends on whether the drainage issue can be solved first. If the yard cannot be graded or drained adequately, a turf installation may not be the right solution, and we will discuss alternatives with you honestly.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf itself drains through its backing. The backing is either perforated (with small holes punched through) or fully permeable (allowing water to pass through the material itself). The drainage rate of the backing is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/sf). A typical residential turf backing drains at 20 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot or faster, which sounds quick but is tested under laboratory conditions. In real use, the true test of drainage is what happens in a pet area during heavy use or in a downpour. If water sits on top of the turf or pools underneath, the problem is usually not the turf backing but the base underneath.
This is why base preparation and slope are so important. A fast-draining turf installed over an uncompacted, level or poorly draining base will fail. Conversely, a properly prepared base with good slope and compaction will drain well even with a standard perforated backing. On hard surfaces like patios, balconies and pool decks, a draining underlay or pad is installed between the base and the turf to add a drainage layer and often a cushioning layer. Ask your installer for the drainage rate of the turf backing in writing, and ask how the base will be prepared and sloped to support drainage. These two elements work together.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a rushed one. Seams (the joints where two pieces of turf meet) are joined using seam tape and a flexible adhesive, with the grain of the turf aligned so the seam is not visible and the fibres lay in the same direction on both sides. Proper seam work is meticulous and takes time. Nails or staples that secure the turf to the base are spaced at the right intervals (typically every 6 to 12 inches around the perimeter and at seams) so the turf stays in place without being over-fastened. Edges are finished with bender board or a secured perimeter so the turf does not fray or lift. Where turf meets pavers, a cool deck or a hard surface, the turf is cut tight to the edge and secured so no gap develops.
After installation, the turf is power broomed. A power broom (or stiff broom) is run over the entire surface to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly. This step restores the turf's appearance and ensures the infill is distributed uniformly. A visible seam, a lifted edge, gaps at the perimeter, or infill clumped in one area are signs the work was rushed. These details are not cosmetic; they affect how the turf wears, how well it drains and how long it lasts. Ask to see finished work and ask your installer to walk you through the seaming and edging method they will use.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before work begins, request a written specification that details every material and method. This spec is your protection and the installer's commitment. It should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimetres, the backing type (perforated or permeable) and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically three to four inches), the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and number of seams, the edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off of old turf or debris, and the workmanship warranty period. Do not accept a price quote without this spec attached. The spec is also your reference if questions arise during or after installation.
A written spec shows that the installer understands your project, has selected materials for your specific use, and is willing to stand behind the choices. It also lets you compare proposals fairly across different installers. For a free estimate and a detailed spec for your yard, contact us with photos and measurements or invite us to visit. Our pricing page explains how measurement and quotes work. A spec in hand is the first step toward a turf installation you can trust.